| The Yamaha AT1MX Replica Project |
| Suspen sion |



| Left, at the bottom you see a spacer tube. This comes in the stock forks and sits on top of the fork spring. Years ago Webco made a fork kit for the AT1/CT1, which consisted of a spring to replace these spacers. Webco isn't around anymore so we used 3 Briggs and Stratton valve springs per fork with B&S valve spring keepers in between each spring & stacked on top of the stock fork springs. Finish off with 4 oz. of 20wt fork oil. This setup will have about a half an inch of preload don't worry, you'll understand why when it's all together. The result is a front suspension that is soft in the first 1 to 2 inches of travel then gets progressivly stiffer, but is very difficult to bottom out. This is as good as it gets with 5.5 inches of travel. |
| Stock Yamaha spacer tube |
| Briggs&Stratton valve springs&keepers |
| Stock Yamaha fork spring and washer |
| Slamming into bumps wasn't what made me nervious about the 30mm forks. Not being able to hold a line at speed or while cornering were my main concerns. This used fork brace made all the difference. The bike holds a line and turns like a cat on carpet. The 21inch CT1 front wheel Happy found, fit perfectly. Michelin S12 does the steering well. |
| Cycle Gear had the 20wt fork oil, fork seals and locktite.$25 The local lawnmower shop had 6 used Briggs&Stratton valve springs and 4 keepers. $10 Fork brace on E-bay $15.99 for a total of $50.99 the AT1 has a front end that works. |


| The Before front end with 18 inch wheel and no fork brace. |


| The used Works Performance shocks were a bolt on. They were off a CZ and were 13.5 inches eye to eye. The mounts fit well and only needed the bushings bored out slightly to fit the larger diameter Yamaha mounting bolts. A drill and a vise was all that was needed. The shocks being 1.5 inches longer works out perfect with the taller front wheel, the bike sits level and feels good on the track. |